Monthly Archives: October 2017
Once I added the aluminium chassis to my MTC1 (see previous post), and then installed electrics into the car, I noticed that there was not much weight left to play with, with the added weight of the chassis.
Since weight distribution adjustments with ballast placement is a very useful tuning tool, I started to look where it would be possible to save a bit of weight. As always, replacing steel screws with titanium or aluminium is one of the easiest ways to save weight. Once I checked out what was available (which is very limited for the MTC1 so far), I settled for the Hiro Seiko titanium and aluminium screw set, although I have no previous experience of Hiro Seiko products.
Hiro Seiko offers three different sets for the MTC1:
48181 MTC1 Titanium Hex Socket Screw Set
48182 MTC1 Titan/Alum Hex Socket Screw Set – Black
48183 MTC1 Titan/Alum Hex Socket Screw Set – S-Black
My choice was the “S-Black” version, which has the aluminium screws anodised in a very similar colour to the MTC1’s aluminium parts.
I really like the packaging of this product. Might be nothing special to most, but then I have always had a special interest for product packaging design 🙂
As you can see in the next picture, the screws are bagged in 5 different bags, with a corresponding list included listing which screws are in which bag.
Hiro Seiko promises a 26.5g weight saving for the full screw set. For the titanium only screw set they promise a 21g drop.
Here you can see the weight of the full car (without body) with the original steel screws. This is with the 7075.it alu chassis with a Savöx SB-2263MG servo, Futaba 614 receiver, MRT transponder, Muchmore ESC and motor, as well as a Muchmore 5200 battery. Tyres are Volante 28 with indoor inserts.
After replacing most of the screws (except M2x10 diff screws, + I don’t use all screws for the upper deck), the weight drop is 26g as promised. This means that with the body added I will have about 35-40g of weight to alter the balance of the car with.
The quality of the screws seem to be very good, with no deformed screws, same colour anodizing on all screws, and the countersunk screws recess perfectly into the chassis. To summarise, it seems I made a good choice for saving weight on my MTC1!
If you want to see the different screw sets available, check Hiro Seiko.
Although I have not had a chance to run the MTC1 yet, I have gathered a few spare and option parts to be prepared for running the car.
Since I will most probably run the car indoors on carpet sometime soon, I figured it will be good to have an aluminium chassis ready. With Mugen’s own aluminium chassis not yet available, there are not many options available so far.
I went for the 7075.it option, and in the pictures here you can see how it looks. I chose to fit it to the car so I could get a feel for it and check quality and fitment. The chassis was straight in itself, and the car stayed straight after fitting the chassis, which are the most important factors. A few of the locating pin holes were a bit too tight, and the detail finish of the part is not amazing, but fairly standard. So overall OK quality, but not perfect.
The chassis is 94 grams, campared to the 64g of the standard carbon fibre chassis. The alu chassis is obviously stiffer than the carbon chassis, but with the standard flex upper deck, the car still has quite a bit of flex, especially for an alu chassis car. Chassis thickness is 2.0mm, compared to the standard 2.15mm carbon chassis on the MTC1.
Here in the last picture I combined the alu chassis with the one-piece upper deck, which makes the car fairly stiff, similar to many other electric TC’s with this setup.
I will report back once I have run the car, but probably also some further posts earlier than that, once I make the car ready to run.